2008 Surfing Journal

12/24/7

Got a call from Rocky this morning that there were some waves at the pier. Thats good because I was PISSED at how good in was in St Augustine on 12/23 and we didn't go.

We need to pull it together when it starts to fire down there.

Anyway, got to the pier at around 8:15 and it was cold as shit. I mean super cold. Chest to shoulder on the sets. Clean, offshore wind. Good shit.

Cold.

Surfed with #6, #7, #3, #13 and #14. That's 6 noseriders on Christmas eve. Pretty solid.

Waves were lining up. Wind stopped all together right before the tide bottomed out and I caught two nice barrels. Woot.

Merry Christmas fuckers.

Now I am at my desk on Christmas eve. To hell with this, I am going to drink some Budweisers.

12/13/7

Surfed the pier again this morning.
It was foggy dog all morning and the sets were stacking up pretty nice. Its warm for December, 65 air, 58 water.
Probably chest to shoulder on the sets and lining up with a little bit of power.
Crowd wasn't as bad as yesterday.
It was good to get a few nice waves in before work. I had one or two really nice ones including a cover up on the inside section. Not bad for Folly.

I was on the Takayama.

Surfed with the local crew and a few members of the MBNR were in the water:

#4, #6, #7 and #13.
#2 was getting in late morning after the early shift at the sugar shack.

12/12/7

Surfed the pier this morning along with 50 other dicks who heard about the "groundswell".

It was stomach to chest on the sets but it was hard to catch one without being dropped in on.
Great sunrise and super glassy surf.

I probably caught 10 waves today, the best being my last one in.

Other members in the water were #6, #7, #14 and #13 was getting in when I left.

Now I am at work with sandy ass wishing I was still on the south side of the pier.

Powered by Drupal - Modified by Danger4k